By Mariam Karagianni,
From its inception, music has been a pulse driving cultural change, mirroring society’s hopes, challenges, and aspirations. But its influence did not end at sound. It reached well beyond the auditory realm —whether that’s an opera hall in a metropolis, where Madama Butterfly is performed or a group of young men recording music on their own, inspired by trap beats. Despite the striking contrast between the two settings, one thing is undeniable: Music and fashion have been interlinked in this symbiotic relationship that spans over the years, never dwindling, but instead, growing ever more stable. This article is dedicated to exploring how this interplay of sound and style has inspired pop culture and, ultimately, our sartorial choices.
It’s without a shadow of a doubt that whatever minor influences music might have had on fashion in previous years, the 20th century is the hallmark of it. Think of the 1920s —the golden age of jazz. Women dressed in ethereal flapper dresses with shorter hemlines appeared in bars and speakeasies, their signature bobbed hairstyle usually concealed by cloche hats. Musicians of that era, like Louis Armstrong, not only became the voices of the decade’s sound but, also, emboldened women to embrace boldness, aligning with the era’s mantra of liberation. When considering the 1950s, though, you can’t help but think of rock ‘n’ roll singers such as Elvis Presley and Carl Perkins, who, with the help of television and an uprising interest in celebrity culture, revolutionized what became known as the “teen fashion revolution”. If the previous eras of music catered to the tastes and sensibilities of adults, rock ‘n’ roll was tailored for the youngsters who tried to copy the leather jackets, cuffed jeans, and pompadour hairstyles promoted by the artists.
The 1960s were a dynamic decade, defined by two opposing subcultures: the Mods (short for Modernists) and the Hippies. Mods owe their roots to upbeat bands that re-modernized jazz, like The Beatles. The members of the band, as well as other Mods, embraced tailor-made slim-fitted suits, Chelsea boots or loafers, and a general style reminiscent of Ivy League students in the States. Hippies, though, threading on a canvas of countercultural movements and protests, rejected societal norms and embraced individuality. Experiments with psychedelic drugs like LSD (from both the artists and their fan base) shaped in its own way the unorthodox style of that period. Floral prints, bell-bottom jeans, headbands, and logos like “peace and love” appeared frequently everywhere. Think of Jimi Hendrix’s vivacious and colorful outfits or the Grateful Dead’s tie-dye shirts and flower crowns.
The 1970s were marked by dramatic contrasts in aesthetics, such as the iconic disco era and glam rock. Disco, born in the vibrant New York club scene, was championed by artists like Donna Summer, the Bee Gees, and ABBA, sparking a fashion revolution, displayed on the memorable dance floors of places like Studio 54. Platform shoes, metallic clothing, and either denim or sequined jumpsuits marked the vivacity of that music. At the same time, rock artists, such as David Bowie and Marc Bolan, embraced androgyny. Despite their gender, they were not afraid to wear makeup, and with their outlandish outfits and hairstyles, they challenged traditional norms.
This interlinked relationship between fashion and music was amplified with the creation of MTV, setting the tone for the next two decades. Artists like Madonna, who embraced bold and theatrical ensembles featuring lace bodices, layered accessories, and striking makeup (not to mention her iconic cone bra), redefined women’s fashion in the 1980s and shattered taboos. Alongside her, Michael Jackson, the King of Pop, with his military-style jackets, and Prince, with his flamboyant clothes, gave the previous androgynous look a further push. The grunge-driven 1990s, led by Nirvana and Pearl Jam, contrasted sharply with the exuberance of the 80s. Combat boots, flannels, ripped jeans, and hairstyles reminiscent of Kurt Cobain were popularized by the youth, echoing the melancholic undertones of their music. At the same time, hip-hop artists like Tupac Shakur and Jay-Z embraced a raw authenticity; a blend of street style attire, with its baggy jeans, gold chains, and flashy sneakers, was combined with the polished sophistication of luxury brands.
As we thread through the first quarter of the 21st century, it’s obvious that one of the biggest influences on the fashion industry remains hip-hop, and specifically rap music. From its first steps in the 1970s in the Bronx, artists like Grandmaster Flash set the stage with Adidas tracksuits and matching sneakers, giving way to the prominence of street style as we know it today. Artists of the trap scene like T.I., Gucci Mane, and later Future (most of whom are Atlanta-based rappers) popularized mixing high-end fashion with urban fashion, infusing their outfits with iced-out watches, chunky gold jewelry, and grills. Representatives of the so-called mumble rap, like Young Thug and Playboi Carti, have completely altered the fashion game. They introduced experimental attire, with gender-fluid clothing and unconventional silhouettes, which many fans try to imitate. Lastly, rappers like Trippie Redd, XXXTentacion, Lil Peep, and most recently Ken Carson and Destroy Lonely, who represent the experimental and SoundCloud rap scenes, also hold great influence on their fans’ closets. Whether it’s grunge-inspired looks, with graphic tees, tattoos, and skinny jeans reminiscent of early artists, or avant-garde, high-fashion street style (with brands like Rick Owens, Chrome Hearts, and Balenciaga frequently referenced in their lyrics), one thing is clear: the boundaries between music genres (or subgenres) and fashion movements are now blurred.
What history has shown us is that the relationship between music and fashion is not just something that concerns pop culture and the entertainment industry. It’s more of a testament to the way in which culture evolves; from the jazz flappers to the experimental trap artists, music and its aftermath (the clothes and trends) tell us a powerful story of societal shifts, all the burning desires to let individuality be set free —all of which find their way through artistic novelty. Today, artists are not just trendsetters; they bear the responsibility of cultural construction, shaping both the wardrobes and ideologies of their followers. And while none of us can predict how this union will evolve eventually, one thing is certain: together, they form a harmonious duo that will undoubtedly echo far in the future.
Reference
- A TIMELINE OF MUSIC’S INFLUENCE OVER FASHION. University of Fashion. Available here
